ENTOMOPHAGY report on eating Thai giant waterbugs
- Subject: ENTOMOPHAGY report on eating Thai giant waterbugs
- Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 10:25:10 -0000
- Yahoo! Message Number: 42023
- Onibasu Link: http://onibasu.com/archives/nn/42023.html
FOOD OF PRINCES
While I realize much more pressing (no triple-pun intended) matters
have been occupying the attention of list-members recently, I will
intrude here with more of my selfless efforts to deliver the vital
dietary information needed to sustain our collective grappling with
the WAPF lifestyle.
Though there's very little food I buy from stores these days, my
affection for fresh ginger root gave me a good excuse to visit an
Asian shop yesterday, and one I hadn't patronized before that turned
out to be of Thai pedigree unlike the Vietnamese, Chinese, and Korean
stores that are more familiar. While browsing through the array of
small fish in the freezer section, I came across a small, non-
descript, almost entirely unlabelled package with four very large
insects proudly arrayed on a styrofoam tray beneath a clear plastic
protective layer. My excitement can hardly be described. Sifting
through a small box I discovered a goodly supply of these packages
mingled with identically-packaged offerings of two other bug
varieties, one appearing to be small larvae of some sort, and the
other some kind of thick mealworm-like item. Recognizing my initial
discovery as the prized Thai giant waterbug, I immediately decided
not to let this opportunity for entomophagical progress go
dishonored. Unfortunately the only information on the package was
its Thai name "maeng-da-na", but a little internet sleuthing
confirmed my suspicions regarding the identity of my new dinner
guest, and I'll mention its scientific name for reference: Lethocerus
indicus.
These noble creatures are said to be the largest native insect
species in Southeast Asia, and indeed they measured a bit over 9cm
(3.6 inches) in length with a pleasantly plump midriff. I selected
two as a main course for myself, leaving the other two in the freezer
in case of any hungry guests before I could replenish my supply. I
opted to steam them for a few minutes, one whole and one butchered
and dressed to the extent my unschooled efforts would allow.
Attending first to the whole waterbug, I saw no reason to accept the
burden of eating such a large and heterogeneously textured creature
in one mouthful, chosing rather to tear bits off at a time to make
more anatomically specific assessments of its gastronomic merit. It
came as little surprise that the large, thick chitinous wings
required a modest bit of chewing, not notably different than the
unshelled larger shrimps I gladly masticate. However, even such a
pedestrian portion of the waterbug offered hints of the flavor
immersion to come. It should be noted that even just placing the
creature within the general vicinity of my nostrils offered a novel
and entirely gratifying experience. Before cooking it was mild and
pleasant; after cooking it was potent and defiantly singular. There
is simply nothing in the annals of our culture I can direct your
attention to that would hint at the nature of the flavor that
intensified as I crunched my way further along its body. Even a
single thin leg (which admittedly did extend as much as 4cm or so)
produced an overwhelming sensation as it met the rigors of my
molars. The sheer intensity gave credence to the lore of the
waterbug's glandular potency. (See the first two reading items
below.) Yet far from being objectionable or intolerable, it was
forcibly enlightening.
Moving on to the next serving, before cooking I made a few clumsy
gestures with a paring knife and gained access to the waterbug's
unfamiliar innards. It must be acknowledged that, as with crabs, the
visual elegance of arthropodic cuisine goes no further than the
creature in its initial pristine state of bodily unity. At this
point I took a few deliberate whiffs. Writing afterwards now I can
state with confidence that those acts of aromatic perception count as
milestones in my budding life. The experentially robust referents of
apple and pear came to immediate and unmistakeable prominence, with
the pear note settling into dominance as the event unfolded.
Keeping my nostrils engaged in the proceedings, I noted a pair of
tiny fleshy chunks that submitted to effortless extraction. Holding
one of these morsels that henceforth must be given the reverential
title of "tenderloin", I again revelled in the fruity bliss of its
scent. My instincts compelled me to sample it raw, upon which the
olfactory experience was subdued and replaced by the rich,
unapologetic spirit of lamb or goat and the tender mouth feel of
crab. Revelation stacked upon revelation. I then proceeded to steam
the mangled pieces and revisit the immersive wonders of the previous
serving.
Without inhibiting the the complex gratification afforded by these
giant waterbugs, leaning over the pot as they cooked gave the
familiar, strong, and relatively uninspiring aroma of a simmering
lamb or goat stew, and I'm led to speculate about the connection in
regards to hormonal secretions.
Altogether, an experience to be revisited regularly as supplies
permit. On that topic, at a price of $2.99 for the four specimens
that totalled 34g, this is a delicacy that calls a tune of $40 per
pound. However, before you exclude this from your "feeding a large
family NT-style on a budget" file, I must share the good news
reported in David Gordon's widely-cited "The Eat-A-Bug Cookbook"
regarding a sister species: "Lethocerus americanus is both big and
abundant, easily plucked from slow-moving rural creeks and streams
across the United States." He goes on to suggest using a lantern at
nighttime to abet a fair harvest. Once these winter days recede I
shall be sure to seek first-hand verification of this enticing
prospect. A report is sure to follow.
To ensure this festive undertaking was done with a greater sense of
Thai cultural presence than would ordinarily be afforded by my rural
Pennsylvania home, I noticed my copy of "Thai Elephant Orchestra" was
lying near the stereo and it seemed like a good fit. Even as the
aftertaste of my first Thai giant waterbugs gives way to my warm
memories of the pear aroma and I issue this brief report, it's
comforting to have these Thai sounds persist. Not quite a recording
of Thai traditional music, this is rather the project of Dave Soldier
and Richard Lair recording elephants playing traditional Thai
instruments like gongs, metallophones, drums, and reed instruments in
Thailand--not unsuccessfully at all and with a pleasantly
unconventional rhythmic sensibility I might add--and also has some
choice field recordings of elephants making sounds with their own
anatomical equipment afterwards. Entirely recommended as an
accompaniment to waterbug dining.
For those whose visual memory of the Thai giant waterbug needs to be
refreshed or even installed for the first time, the following link
suffices:
http://www5f.biglobe.ne.jp/~Dytiscus/TAGAME/indicus.htm
Some very worthy reading is offered below.
Post-rapturously yours,
Mike Parker
SE Pennsylvania
____________________
Here are two fascinating and excellent short articles.
http://tizwason.notlong.com
http://jamjugil.notlong.com
Don't have a fully solid handle on this bit though:
"He also recalled an earthy proverb: Ca cuong chet den dit con cay
(the ca cuong, dead, on reaching the anus remains intense). It is a
variant of the adage that no one can change the basic nature of
things. That the ca cuong is widely believed to be an aphrodisiac
adds further ambiguity to the proverb."
____________________
http://www.kowloontraders.com/ampjan00.html
Dear Mr. Ping,
You are accounted a genius by many of your fans, but I believe I have
a question about Asian food that will stump you. When I was in Laos
at an official banquet, a very snooty looking waiter was standing by,
holding a medicine dropper containing some mysterious colorless
liquid. Occasionally, some gourmet would signal to this waiter upon
which the snooty fellow would squeeze two drops of this fluid upon
the particular dish indicated. After this banquet, I tried to find
out from my friend what this stuff was, but was ultimately
unsuccessful. What was this prized fluid?
Curious George
Dear Curious George,
Aha!!!! You thought you could stump me, Mr. Ping, the Scourge of the
Internet, but alas, you cannot. Since this banquet took place in
Laos, a lot of other less worthy sages might think that special fluid
was some kind of vintage fish sauce, made from the liver of the
monster catfish, the "pa beuk" which prowls upon the Mekong,
tantalizing fishermen with its choice fish head. But it is not. (HA!)
That fluid was actually the glandular secretion of a live Asian water
bug, the Lethocerus Indicus, a bug of such rarity that each precious
drop of its juice is worth $30 !!!! So what does this millionaire's
version of MSG taste like? It is hard to describe, since the flavor
is so unique, but the closest I can come is the word "musky." To be
more precise, it is like tasting the buggy essence of some heavenly
aquatic potion personally decanted by the Great Buddha Himself. So if
you ever visit Laos, Curious George, you must go to some fine
restaurant, look for a guy with a medicine dropper, and request a
taste of this marvelous condiment.
____________________
A wealth of information on waterbug cuisine is found towards the
middle of the following page, and the other snippets below are from
the same site (<food-insects.com>):
http://somnitar.notlong..
Some excerpts:
"It is a great delicacy which is shared by Laos and Siamese alike; it
reaches the tables of princes in Bangkok." The usual methods of
preparing it are described as follows: "1. Steam thoroughly and then
soak in shrimp sauce. The insect is then served up and picked to
pieces, each piece yielding a little meat from its inner side. The
flavour is strong and reminiscent of Gorgonzola cheese. 2. After
cooking, pound it up and use it for flavouring sauces or curries. A
popular sauce called Namphla is made by mixing shrimps, lime juice,
garlic, and pepper and then adding Mang daar [Mang daar nah is the
Lao name] to finish up with. Vegetables are dipped into this sauce."
"Shoppers were used to stick a toothpick, which was served by the
shopkeeper, in the abdomen of the bug and then smell it in order to
buy a good one. Good one means the bug which has a stronger and
better flavor. Usually the male bug is more attractive, but the
female bug is also sold."
____________________
Belostomatidae (giant water bugs)
Lethocerus indicus Lep. & Serv. (= Belostoma indica Vitalis), egg,
adult
Bréhion reports that the giant waterbug, the con-bo capunoc, is
roasted and consumed in the nuoc-mam sauce, and in Saigon a pair
fetches 2 fr. 50.
The hemipteron, Belostoma indica Vitalis, the ca or dacuong of the
Annamites is sought not only for its flesh but especially for a
liquid that it secretes which is used as a seasoning for many dishes
and is considered indispensable for some. Nguyen-Cong-Tieu describes
in detail how the liquid-producing sacs are harvested. Belostoma is
also eaten although it is not very fleshy. After the wings, legs and
caudal appendages are removed, it is grilled over charcoal or steamed
in a special pan (double boiler, the upper part of which has a bottom
with a hole through which steam can pass). In either case, only the
soft parts within the thorax are eaten. A third procedure involves
chopping up the insect and sauteing it in fat, in which case the
entire insect is eaten including the chitinous covering. Children
collect Belostoma eggs from aquatic plants and eat them raw or
grilled. The adult bugs are captured using special "fish baskets" and
at lights.
See also Nguyen-Cong-Tieu and Esaki in the Introduction.
____________________
Belostomatidae (giant water bugs)
Lethocerus indicus Lep. & Serv., adult
Delphin mentioned the giant water bug, Lethocerus, which is collected
in the Rangoon area as it flies around the bright mercury lanterns
that line the streets. The bugs are placed on hot coals, and the
cooked insides eaten just as one would the soft parts of the limbs of
lobsters and crabs. This practice, however, is not widespread.
____________________
To recognize the preferences of different national palates, borrowing
from Curran's line of thinking, we can note that the giant water-bug
Lethocerus indicus, a favorite food throughout southeast Asia from
eastern India and Burma to Vietnam and southern China is now imported
and sold (as whole bugs, paste, or alcohol extract known as "Mangdana
essence") in southeast Asian community foodshops in San Francisco,
Oakland, and Berkeley (Pemberton, Pan-Pac. Entomologist 64:81-82,
1988).
____________________
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